Not all boards are created equally! Especially when taking on the worst surf, most boards are going to work great in good surf, but that's not the case when you're trying to get that fill on a summer wind swell. For maximum fun we would recommend the Mick Fanning Softboards or a performance Epoxy or Thunderbolt longboard if you want to practice those cross steps & noserides. Check in with our Longboards.
We caught up with team rider Mike Winter, on why he picked this particular 9'4 Epoxy Thunderbolt x Firewire board for today's awful surf on the south coast.
Mike - "this 9'4 Taylor Jensen 'Everyday' has some volume, but its design helps it to avoid feeling sticky, and geting hung up, it has edge in the tail and rail, and rocker! It's all about the rocker"
"I'll often surf mid-lengths on really good days, using the Firewire TJ Mid & surf my single fin noserider (log) for the rare clean, waist high days. Thunderbolt or Firewire Epoxy boards give me really nice flex in the board, they're light and lively"
Longboarders will have a quiver of longboards, because the differences between them are emmense. Just like short-boarding, rail shape matters, weight of glass matters, and the shapes vary dramatically from wide point back with hips like a 'pig' or Californian style, wide point forward of centre.. but lets try to keep this simple ..ish.
Mike and Mango Surfing dicussed the following points.
When the waves aren't lined up point breaks, but are wonky beach breaks (and not good ones at that), things that could help you surf better are ..
Length of board
A longer board will usually help you catch more waves. When it comes to lined up point breaks your 10' Log will enhance the noseride .. but in awful surf you don't want to be rolling around with a 10' tanker, you'l often find a 9'0 to 9'4 is plenty long enough. For those of you that don't want to practice your cross stepping or nose riding, then a mid-length, fat fish, 7'6 or 8' foamie may provide you the most joy. But if you want to learn the basics of longboarding, surfing on days like this, will make the good days so much better.
Rocker (curvature of your board)
Having tail rocker is going to help you turn, no matter what length your board. If your board is shorter, aim for less rocker in the nose for small waves, this will help your planing speed or if your board is long, you've got speed, so having nose rocker is going to help you slide back into the pocket (curling part of the wave), to help keep you connected to the power source and help create nose riding situations. A less rockered longboard can outrun the nose riding sections before you've had a chance to react. The nose rocker slows you down (by pushing water) to keep you in the pocket. Once the wave rolls over your tail, the nose will rise like a seesaw and you can then even out the balance point by standing upon it (by walking up your board using the cross step) and therefor achieving the the hang five or hang ten (toes over) noseride.
Edge in the tail
Remember the surf is bad, you need to react fast, a tail with quick water release and built to turn, will help.
2 plus 1 fin set up.
Sometimes a smaller single fin and smaller sidebites will combine to bring that performance thruster element to longboarding. In the 90's and 00's this was prevalent, but with the traditional resurgence of the last decade, single fins are now the norm, but the 2 plus 1 definitely has it's place for some longboarders.
Glass lay up and Lamination
There are many terms for the firebglass and resin that is on your board, and there are different weights of glass. 4oz for shortboards, 6oz for fish, mid-lengths & longboards and these are often doubled up on the deck of your board and further tail patches around fins. Trad' logs are heavily glassed (10oz plus) and will go beautifully on a point break, but when you have junk surf like that on offer in today's pics, ideally you want a lighter board .. often with an EPS (Expanded Polystyrene) blank and Epoxy resin used with the fibreglass. This resin is stronger than the standard PU (Polyeurethane) resin and will help you use less fibreglass and resin. Alternative technologies from brands such as Firewire and Thunderbolt provide a lively experience to your surf.
Now you may think all of this is a bit overkill for a tiny wave. But there is joy in the culture and practice of surfing, in equipment progression, and in the health benefits it brings; just paddling out on a chill but rubbish day, will re-set your nervous system, give you much needed 'grounding', cold water benefits and movement for your Lymphatic system ** I feel another Journal coming on ..
All Photos of Mike by Andy @ Mango Surfing.
** our medical advice could be totally bogus - surf at your own risk.